Il tuo carrello è vuoto
This journey was the partial fulfillment of my dream as a young naturalist, deeply passionate and fascinated by the incredible biodiversity and the numerous endemic species that define the nature of this amazing land.
After hearing about the experiences of some friends, the plan was to start in the capital, Antananarivo or Tanà, as the locals call it and travel southwest to Tulear, crossing much of the central and southern highlands of the Grande Terre.Upon my arrival at the airport, I was greeted by the man who would be my guide and driver throughout the tour, just past the usual security checks. Tahina Rakotomavo (you can find it on Facebook as Alfa Tan Tah Rak or reach them at +261343315026) a freelance driver-guide who speaks Italian very well and is deeply knowledgeable about his country, its customs and its nature. He is also an excellent driver, well-versed in the Malagasy driving style, which is necessary given the poor condition of the roads, including the national highways that stretch across the country.
Indeed, the first thing that strikes you as you leave the capital is the terrible condition of the roads, with an incalculable number of potholes, some of them very deep, forcing drivers into sometimes daring maneuvers. This results in an average driving speed of about 30 km/h, making the longer journeys quite exhausting. However, while this might be a problem that limits access for a larger number of tourists, it also means that those who do make the journey can enjoy the beauty of this country in relative peace. Naturally, the peak tourist season corresponds with the driest months, from mid-June to mid-October.
Madagascar is an island that hosts an extraordinary cultural and ethnic diversity. The population is made up of 18 different ethnic groups, each with its own traditions, customs and practices. During my journey, I had the opportunity to interact with some of these groups:
- **The Merina**, who live in the central highlands, are the dominant ethnic group. They have played a key role in the political and cultural history of Madagascar. The Merina culture is deeply influenced by monarchy and nobility. Funeral ceremonies are of great importance to them, and agriculture, particularly rice cultivation, is central to their economy.
- **The Betsileo** reside in the southern highlands and are known for their agricultural skills, especially in terrace rice farming. Their culture is similar to that of the Merina, with a strong emphasis on agricultural traditions and funeral rituals.
- **The Bara**, who live in the southwestern highlands, are known for their cattle herding tradition. Their culture is closely tied to these animals, which are considered symbols of status and wealth. Their funeral practices are particularly unique, especially for groups living in the Isalo region. After the establishment of the park, the government required the residents to leave the park areas but allowed them to continue burying their dead in the caves formed in the rocks by time and erosion, maintaining an ancient tradition. The Bara funeral ritual is a complex and meaningful practice that reflects the importance of tradition and culture in their daily lives. For the Bara, death does not signify the end of existence but a transition to another form of life and funeral rites are designed to ensure the deceased's soul can make this passage safely and appropriately.
The funeral rites consist of four main stages:
- **The Vezo** occupy the southwestern coast. They are predominantly nomadic fishermen, with fishing being their main activity. Their traditions are closely linked to the sea and traditional canoes, known as *lakana*, are an essential part of their culture.
Arriving in Antananarivo, the vibrant capital of Madagascar, felt like stepping into a mosaic of colors, sounds and scents. The bustling streets, crowded markets, and warm smiles of the locals welcomed me to this fascinating land. The city, perched on lush hills, offers breathtaking panoramic views and a unique blend of tradition and modernity.
I stayed in Antananarivo for just one night and early the next morning, we set off for Antsirabe, a tranquil spa town about 170 kilometers south of the capital. Known for its hot springs, Antsirabe was a stop on the way to the first national park I planned to visit and explore. Before continuing the journey, I visited the surrounding area, particularly the volcanic lake Tritriva. This lake, nestled in a crater with steep, deep walls, is said to resemble the shape of Madagascar. The enchanting landscape around it seemed straight out of a fairy tale and there’s a legend that tells of two lovers who, after being forbidden to marry by their families, drowned themselves hand in hand in its dark waters.
As I continued my journey south, after about 300 kilometers and ten hours, I arrived in the rainforest of Ranomafana. This national park is a treasure trove of biodiversity, one of the most famous and frequently visited in Madagascar. Its sparkling waterfalls and trails wrapped in lush greenery made me feel small in the presence of nature’s grandeur. The park, spanning over 400 square kilometers of rainforest, is partly still primary forest and is renowned for its role in preserving local wildlife and flora.
Before setting out on guided hikes led by the park’s excellent guides, it's essential to wear proper jungle attire: long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, sturdy hiking boots and a hat for sun protection. Don’t forget a raincoat, as the weather can be unpredictable with frequent showers, even during the driest season. The hikes, which can be quite strenuous without proper preparation, immediately impress with the lush vegetation that seems to envelop everything. The sound of birds and the hum of insects create a natural symphony that accompanies the entire trek.
The park is home to 29 species of mammals, including 12 lemur species and hundreds of species of butterflies, reptiles, amphibians and many birds. The flora is also fascinating, rich with medicinal plants, ferns, orchids, palms, carnivorous plants and giant bamboo. While hiking, you may spot various lemur species, though photographing them in the dense vegetation is quite a challenge. The park’s most famous resident is the golden bamboo lemur, discovered right here in Ranomafana. During my three-day stay, I managed to spot 3-4 of the 12 lemur species in the park. May, being the start of the dry season and winter, isn’t the best time to see reptiles and amphibians, but the sightings I did make were well worth the effort: a few species of frogs, satanic leaf-tailed geckos, giraffe beetles, brightly colored butterflies, several bird species and at least five types of chameleons. An extraordinary experience was the nighttime hike, which is only possible outside the park’s boundaries but is absolutely incredible. Along the road leading to the park entrance, in areas well-known to the guides, tiny mouse lemurs appear, illuminated by the lamps, just a few meters away from me. Hanging from the branches like dangling fruit, various species of chameleons sleep, often upside down, confident in their camouflage and protected by the darkness.
Another marvel of the park is its numerous waterfalls and hot springs. The Namorona Falls are particularly captivating, with water cascading forcefully over the rocks, creating a picturesque scene. The hot springs, on the other hand, offer a chance to relax and soak in the natural warm water, a rejuvenating touch after a long day of hiking.
Leaving the park, you feel like you've just had an extraordinary adventure. The Ranomafana National Park isn't just a sanctuary for endangered wildlife and plants; it's also a place of natural beauty and tranquility, offering an unforgettable experience that inspires respect and love for nature.
After a four-hour drive southwest, I reached the Anja Reserve, another gem of biodiversity and natural beauty. Managed by the local community, it provides visitors with a unique and authentic experience. The reserve is easily accessible from the town of Ambalavao.
The area is characterized by massive granite rock formations that rise from the landscape, with colors ranging from the orange of the rocks to the lush green of the forests covering the lower elevations. These rocky massifs offer spectacular views and opportunities for climbing. The hike can take you to panoramic viewpoints, where you can enjoy a 360-degree view of the reserve and its natural wonders. One of the highlights is encountering several groups of ring-tailed lemurs, or lemur catta, one of Madagascar's iconic species. These lemurs are accustomed to human presence and can be observed up close as they climb trees or leap from branch to branch, going about their daily activities. Particularly fascinating is the early morning wait on some high rocks, where, at sunrise, these lemurs gather to soak up the warmth of the first rays of the sun, warming their bodies after the cold night and beginning a new day of foraging.
The Anja Reserve is also rich in a variety of endemic plants and other animal species. I observed and photographed chameleons, frogs, reptiles, colorful birds flying above the forest, vibrant butterflies and insects that are as colorful as they are harmful. I also went on a couple of night tours, which revealed even more animals in this extremely interesting reserve.
After spending three days in the area, I moved on to the Tsaranoro Valley, a uniquely beautiful place known for its excellent rock climbing opportunities. The granite walls here present challenges for climbers of all skill levels, with routes varying in difficulty and length.
One of the main bases for exploring the Tsaranoro Valley is Camp Catta. To reach this camp, you must travel along a dirt road for at least an hour. Once there, you’ll find well-equipped facilities offering a range of accommodations, from comfortable bungalows to camping areas for those seeking a more rustic experience. The camp also features a restaurant where you can enjoy both local and international dishes made with fresh ingredients.
Numerous trails start from Camp Catta, winding through the valley and offering breathtaking views of the mountains and local flora. One of the most popular hikes is the ascent to the summit of Mount Chameleon, where you can take in a spectacular panorama.
The valley is rich in biodiversity and if you're lucky, you might spot lemurs, chameleons and various bird species. Within the camp, you'll often encounter ring-tailed lemurs who are accustomed to human presence and can be approached and photographed without difficulty. If your main interest is wildlife spotting, a stay of one or two days should suffice.
A visit to the Tsaranoro Valley and Camp Catta is certainly an intriguing experience.
From the Tsaranoro Valley, I continued on to Isalo National Park, located in the southwest of Madagascar. This park is one of the island's most stunning and captivating destinations, covering an area of about 815 square kilometers. It offers a remarkable variety of landscapes, including rugged rock formations, deep canyons, grasslands and crystal-clear streams.
During my visit, I had the privilege of meeting Billy Rowland (you can contact him via Messenger or at +261348779513), the most knowledgeable and passionate guide I encountered during my entire trip. Billy is a true naturalist and I highly recommend reaching out to him if you want to fully appreciate the wonders of this fascinating park. The surreal landscape of Isalo, shaped by wind and water, left me speechless. I hiked through canyons, explored natural pools and witnessed fiery sunsets that painted the sky in shades of red and orange. The sandstone rocks form spectacular shapes, with arches, towers and canyons stretching for miles.
Within the park, there are numerous natural pools, including the famous "Blue Pool" and "Black Pool." These clear water basins, nestled among the rocks, provide the perfect spot to cool off after a long hike. The Makis Canyon and Rats Canyon are among the most well-known. These canyons are home to many endemic plant and animal species. The park is renowned for its biodiversity. In addition to lemurs, you can find chameleons, rare birds and a variety of endemic plants, including many species of aloe. Thanks to Billy's passion and expertise, I was able to photograph Sifaka and Catta lemurs, numerous chameleons, frogs, bizarre and unusual insects, the two species of Boa that live in Madagascar and, in the more arid areas, iguanas and spiny-tailed lizards.
Speaking of Sifakas, Billy shared with me a fascinating true story that occurred a few years ago. Before 2019, a massive fire broke out in a valley, decimating the resident Verreaux's Sifaka family. Some managed to escape the devastation, while others were killed by the flames. After the fire subsided, the park guides discovered that a young female had survived, injured but alive. She was adopted and protected by a group of ring-tailed lemurs, who helped her reach adulthood. However, no other Sifakas were seen in the valley and researchers grew concerned about the species survival there. Billy took it upon himself to contact the most renowned lemur scientist in Madagascar and together they planned a reintroduction program to bring Sifakas back to the valley. Just as the project was about to start, the COVID-19 pandemic hit, putting everything on hold until 2022. When people finally returned to the park, they were surprised to see that, during the absence of humans, a male Sifaka had returned to the valley, mated with the solitary female and started a new resident family. Now, that pair has produced three offspring and it is hoped that they will help stabilize the presence of Verreaux's Sifakas in that part of the park. It’s an incredible story of nature's resilience and vitality!
Continuing my journey south, I spotted the first baobab trees along the road. Their majestic height makes them seem as if they want to touch the sky, though the species in this region isn’t as tall as those found in the Morondava area further north.
I finally arrived in Tulear, known as the "City of the Sun." Situated on the southwestern coast, this seaside town is popular for beach and diving tourism. However, my destination was slightly further north, where I planned to visit the Ifaty Spiny Forest, one of the most fascinating and unique reserves in the country. This arid ecosystem is home to flora that has incredibly adapted to harsh climatic conditions, with many species that can’t be found anywhere else in the world. The reserve is an example of community-based conservation, where many guides and staff involved in the projects come from local communities. This not only helps protect this fragile ecosystem but also provides a vital source of income for the people living nearby.
The Ifaty Spiny Forest is famous for its spiny and succulent plants. Some of the most iconic species include:
- **Didieraceae:** Plants that look like they’ve come straight out of an alien botany book, with twisted and bizarre shapes.
- **Baobabs:** Majestic trees with enormous trunks that seem to defy gravity.
- **Euphorbias:** Spiny plants that often resemble cacti, although they’re not related at all.
Beyond the flora, the forest is also home to a diverse range of fauna: mouse and nocturnal lemurs, various species of chameleons and geckos, a myriad of endemic birds, tenrecs and turtles.
Hikes through the forest can vary in length and difficulty, but generally follow well-defined trails that lead through surreal, almost lunar landscapes. The guides explain the unique characteristics of the plants and animals encountered along the way, also sharing local legends and stories.
Visiting the Ifaty Spiny Forest is a unique experience, offering a rare glimpse into an extraordinarily adapted ecosystem. It serves as a reminder of the beauty and fragility of our planet, and the importance of conservation.
After returning to Tana from Tulear on an internal flight and before heading back to Italy, I visited the Peyrieras Private Reserve, also known as the Peyrieras Reptile Reserve or Madagascar Exotic. Located near the town of Marozevo, along the road connecting Antananarivo and Andasibe, this reserve is a popular stop for tourists en route to Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.
The reserve was established by André Peyriéras, a French entomologist and naturalist renowned for his work on Madagascar's wildlife. The reserve's goal is to preserve and showcase the island’s extraordinary biodiversity. It's particularly well-known for its collection of rare and endangered animals, including various species of chameleons, leaf-tailed geckos (Uroplatus), several types of frogs like the rare Mantella aurantiaca, the two species of Malagasy Boa, other reptiles, and a wide array of butterflies.
Although the animals are kept in large, netted enclosures that may give the impression of a zoo, the Peyrieras Reserve plays a crucial role in the conservation of Malagasy species, some of which are threatened by habitat loss and the illegal exotic pet trade. The reserve works with various organizations to promote conservation and research efforts.
In short, the Peyrieras Reserve is a significant landmark for Madagascar’s biodiversity, offering a unique experience for nature lovers and excellent opportunities for photography.
As my journey through Madagascar’s natural wonders came to an end, I found myself reflecting on the experience with a deep sense of fulfillment. As the plane took off, a calmness settled over me, as if the rhythm of nature had soothed my soul, helping me rediscover a part of myself that had been forgotten. Memories of pristine white beaches kissed by the turquoise waves of the ocean blended with images of towering baobabs against the orange sunset sky.
Encounters with curious lemurs, vividly colored chameleons and other animals I had never seen before remain etched in my mind as symbols of an untouched world living in harmony with time. And as the distance grows, I know that this connection will never be broken and an inner voice whispers: I’ll be back soon!
